We have rented a shack in An Bang Fishing Village, a few kilometers from Hoi An in Central Vietnam. Just an empty field lies between us and the sea. It”s a two-minute walk to this simple Fishermen’s Temple, where fishing folk come to pray for good catches and safe returns. Sadly, the prayers don’t always help and the family next door lost their father and son last year. Their boats are small and their catches smaller still. It’s an idyllic spot to visit, but a hard life.