On my morning stroll along An Bang Beach near Hoi An I passed four makeshift altars. Here, people had made offerings to loved ones who had died offshore. There were bunches of yellow flowers, incense, paper votive offerings, brightly wrapped candies and cigarettes.
As well as being home to a fishing village, An Bang is a popular place for locals to swim in the early evenings. Unfortunately, the waves can get rough and there is an undertow. Many Vietnamese people can’t swim, including some who live near the ocean. Children are especially vulnerable-and drownings on An Bang aren’t uncommon. According to Swimsafe.org, a staggering 32 kids drown in Vietnam every day.
It was a beautiful morning. The sun was shining, the sea was blue. Tourists were body-surfing and sun-tanning. Nobody seemed to give those temporary altars any thought. Soon, the tide rose and swept them away. But I couldn’t help but imagine the mothers and fathers who had sat there in the night, offering comfort to their lost children.